Roland Barthes states this more soberly: ‘Our evaluation of the world no longer depends [. . .] on the opposition between noble and base but on that between Old and New.’18 The insistence on originality was the mantra of the artistic avant-garde. At the same time it is clear that every presumptively original utterance is encapsulated in an overwhelmingly larger context of repetition. When an artist or creator of fashion does something new, it will be found (assuming one has done one’s homework in the history of art and fashion) that the ‘underlying condition of the original’ is the ‘ever-present reality of the copy’, as the art theorist Rosalind Krauss points out.
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